Designing a pair of trousers

Pantalon launched in October 2022 with the first pair
of signature trousers, but it was in November 2021 that the idea crystallised in my mind and when the sampling journey began. 
My inspiration was to create a pair of trousers that I would like to wear. I chose trousers because while it feels as though there are more fashion designers, retailers, and brands than ever before, I still didn’t feel fulfilled in the experience of shopping for, buying and wearing a good pair of trousers - something so integral to the wardrobe. I had become obsessed with the details and design components of the ideal trouser, to the point I knew I had something to develop and share. 
I was also very curious about what it would take to
build a clothing brand, independent of fashion seasons and with a focus on alternative fabric sourcing. Most of all it just felt right, so I started.
 Once I began developing the idea, my non-negotiable design details were:
A mid-rise: I own a pair of jeans which sit perfectly mid-rise and it makes for a much more flattering classic fit, allowing tops to fit proportionally.
A narrow waistband: I've owned and worn a vintage black skirt for a decade, and one of it's greatest features is a simple and narrow waistband which gives the skirt a timeless and minimal appeal.
Room through the hip and leg to create a relaxed fit, but not a baggy fit. In my personal experience buying trousers, it's often easy to buy oversized trousers and have them taken in at the waist for a flattering fit, but I got tired of buying pants in this way.
Fabric must be lightweight, but heavy enough to drape well.
The process started when I visited my tailor who I talked to about creating the first sample - the reconstruction of a vintage Calvin Klein pattern from the 90s I had purchased online. When the sample came back, the pants were wearable, but there was more work to do. They were slightly too baggy through the leg and the fabric was too light; there wasn’t quite the right weight in it to drape. The zip was sewn in at the side which is common for invisible zip placement but that didn’t feel right either. It felt lopsided on the hip.
I was then introduced to a brilliant Sydney-based patternmaker and from that point on, I knew Pantalon was on the right path. After months of back and forth, revised samples and costly and time-consuming reworks, I had a sample I was happy with; a minimal design that fit a sample-size body as well as myself who is shorter and curvier, by allowing some slight ease at the crotch and some ease around the hips. 
And in a very simplified story, this is how the first Pantalon sample was developed before going into production. Since launching, I’ve had some interesting feedback from customers on the fit and I’d love to share this in the next newsletter. How do you like your trousers to fit? How do you like to shop? I'd love to hear from you.
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